Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

Favas, Favas, Favas

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

Springtime is always an exciting time at the Farmer’s Market.  Although we are lucky to have an active Farmers Market 12 months of the year in California; Spring always seems particularly exhilarating. I have friends that can’t wait for ramps. Others enjoy the freshness of peas. Artichokes are a huge crop in Santa Barbara from March through May. However, for this household it’s Fava Beans! I buy them twice a week and add them to everything.

Did you ever see a fava bean? It actually has two pods. The big long green pods holds about five fava beans.

Fresh Fava Beans

Fresh Fava Beans

Each of the beans above still have a second shell that you will want to remove. It’s easy. Just boil a pot of water and toss the beans in for about 45 seconds. Pour into a strainer and cool by running the beans under tap water. Several recipes recommend that you add the hot favas to an ice bath, but I don’t find that step necessary. After about a minute under running water the favas will be sufficiently cooled and are ready to peal. Just pinch off the green stem with your fingernail and then use your thumb and forefinger to squeeze the fava…the inner fava bean will slide right out.

Removing Favas from their Shell

Removing Favas from their Shell

Look at the picture on the right. You will see the final fava bean. It’s bright green and coming out of it’s shell. Remember the fava has cooked in boiling water for 45 seconds, so it only needs to cook for a few minutes more. You can treat favas like peas, and add them to any recipe where you would add peas.

I typically use fava beans three ways: sauted with butter, added to farro pasta with shrimp, or added to a risotto.

Sauteing favas is very easy. Add a little butter to a saute pan then add your favas. Season with salt and pepper and cook for about 3 minutes. Add to your plate and voila. A nice way to finish the dish is to grate a little Parmigiano Reggiano over the top.

To add the favas to a pasta dish or a risotto is the same concept; add the favas about three minutes before the dish is done. So, for my pasta dish, I add the pasta to the saute pan where the shrimp has been cooking with a bit of the pasta water. I then add red pepper flakes and the juice of two lemons. Then add the favas. If the pasta looks too dry, add a little more pasta water. Finish with a tablespoon of butter. Season with salt and pepper.

Risotto typically takes 20 to 25 minutes to cook. When you’re ready to add the last half cup of broth to the risotto you can then add the favas. Cook the risotto  for a couple more minutes, remove from the heat and add butter and cheese.

The season for favas and many other Spring vegetables is short, so enjoy them while you can.

Pizza Party

Saturday, March 27th, 2010

Pizza is one of the most debated items in the food world. In New York there is always a fiery discussion about the best restaurant for pizza. Chicago chimes in that pizza should be more of a deep dish variety. Personally, I prefer a thin crust. So the other night I made three of my favorites: goat cheese & caramelized onion; sausage, onion & fontina; and meatball & mozzarella. Which is the best? I love them all, so I will leave it up to you to decide.

The trick to serving several pies in one night is to prepare all the toppings ahead of time. Pizza dough is pretty easy to make, but if I am cooking three pizzas I want to save as much time as possible…in other words, I bought my dough at Lazy Acres. When I make my own dough, I typically use a recipe by Wolfgang Puck. His recipe adds a little honey to the dough which is a nice touch. Below are the three pies..

Goat Cheese & Caramelized Onion Pizza is probably the pie I make most often. I slice one large onion into half rounds then saute in olive oil and butter till caramelized, about 30 minutes. You need to cook the onions slowly which will bring out the sweetness; the onions will be brown but not burnt. Next, I roll my dough till it is ultra thin, you can almost see through it. Add cornmeal to the top of your pizza peel and then the pizza on top. Oil the entire surface of the pie then spread your onions around evenly. Add small chunks of a good goat cheese on top of the onions next drizzle a bit more olive oil over the pie so it isn’t too dry. Now, season with Herbes de Provence, salt and pepper. Cook in a 500 - 500 degree oven till the crust turns brown.

Goat Cheese & Caramelized Onion Pizza

Goat Cheese & Caramelized Onion Pizza

Sausage, onion, and fontina pizza is a twist on the classic sausage pizza.  First, remove the Italian sausage from its casing and saute till brown. I make the onions the same way as the pie above but I cook them for 10 minutes less. They are not brown, but translucent with a slight slight crunch. For the tomatoes, you can use fresh, but I would bake them first to remove some moisture. I use Rao’s Marinara Sauce, but first I cook over low heat for about 15 minutes to remove some moisture (if too wet, the pizza will be soggy). Lastly, I grate an imported fontina cheese.

Sausage, Onion & Fontina Pizza

Sausage, Onion & Fontina Pizza

After the prep work is complete, roll the dough out like above and cover with a bit of olive oil. Then add a light coat of tomato sauce, then onion, sausage, and fontina. Add red chili flakes or salt if desired. Bake till brown and bubbly.

Pizza with meatball and mozzarella is the last pie I made. I was lucky to have leftover meatballs. I treated the tomato sauce the same as above. I prefer to use fresh mozzarella because it will have better flavor than the supermarket varieties, but it will also contain more moisture. Either will be delicious. After slicing the mozzarella, be sure to use paper towels to remove excess moisture from the fresh cheese. You can also grate the mozzarella if you prefer.

By now you should be a pizza expert. Roll out your dough, add olive oil, tomato sauce, meatballs, and cheese. Again, bake until bubbly and brown.

I have made pizza with friends a dozen times; it’s a great way to entertain. Everyone gets involved and has a lot of fun. An added benefit is that meal is spectacular! Do you have a favorite pizza recipe? I’d love to hear about it.

Mushroom Hunt

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

This past Sunday I went on a mushroom hunt in Nojoqui Falls Park. Slow Food Santa Barbara organized the event, and it was a great success. Over 50 people and 8 dogs participated. We hunted for mushrooms for a couple hours then went to Via Maestro 42 for a killer meal.

Nojoqui Falls Park is a beautiful place just a few miles north of Gaviota. Most people visit the park to view the spectacular 80 foot waterfall; but our group was all about the mushrooms. We were armed with baskets, gloves, and knives ready to hunt for that illusive fungi. Mushrooms are not that easy to find. Although they are typically found in moist areas under trees, they blend into the landscape and are well hidden under leaves. To make our job even more difficult, poison oak was everywhere. But we had a tenacious group that prowled the woods and ended up collecting hundreds of mushrooms. After the hunt we reconvened to display our treasures on a picnic table. Mycologist Bob Cummings discussed each species and told us which mushrooms were edible…most weren’t. 

Mushrooms

Mushrooms

Our two best finds were a big batch of chanterelles and two rare, but very flavorful, black trumpet mushrooms.

Chanterelles

Chanterelles

After the hunt, it was time for lunch at Via Maestra 42, an Italian restaurant in town. Renato Moiso, the owner, prepared a special meal for the Slow Food group with a focus on mushrooms. The first course was a stuffed portabello mushroom served with asparagus.

Stuffed Portabello

Stuffed Portabello

Next was a mushroom risotto made with farro (rather than the typical arborio or carnaroli rice). The dish was rich and laden with chunks of mushrooms; it was earthy and delicious . The main course was a braised pheasant with porchini mushrooms served with roasted potatoes. Why can’t I eat like this everyday?

Pheasant with Porchini Mushrooms

Pheasant with Porchini Mushrooms

Antonio Gardella, an early member of Slow Food SB, produced Companeros Wines with a group of friends. These wines were not sold, but were saved for special occasions. Antonio donated his wines for the event on Sunday. What made them so special is that the Campaneros Winery was destroyed last May in the Jesusita fire, and unfortunately will not be rebuilt. I hope we can find a way to capitalize on Antonio’s talents, and make more great wine.

Our final course was a hazelnut torte. The flavor reminded me of the hazelnut gelato I ate in Florence, scrumptious. Renato outdid himself once again. A fantastic meal was enjoyed by all.

Slow Food will have events monthly, gathering like minded people to celebrate food. If you would like to join us, click here.

Pork & Flying Pigs Farm

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

I love pork. Whether it’s a chop, a rack of ribs, bacon, sausage, or lardo on my pizza…I eat it all. Last year I had my first taste of porchetta at a Slow Food event. The juicy meat was flavored with fennel pollen and encrusted in a crispy skin; it just melted in my mouth. This year I want to cook many other variations of pork that hopefully will be as tasty as that porchetta.

Since I have been unhappy with most of the pork available locally, I purchased several pork products from Flying Pigs Farm in Upstate New York. Flying Pigs breeds Large Black, Gloucestershire Old Spot, and Tamworth pigs. Their goal is raise heritage pigs the old fashion way resulting in a product that has more moisture and flavor. Although their pork is not cheap, I am very pleased with their quality.

I purchased bacon, sweet Italian sausage, pork chops and a loin roast. I liked the bacon but I don’t think it’s necessarily better than premium brands, like Niman Ranch, which is available locally. The sausage was great; I used it on pizza and in a tomato sauce. The sausage has a course texture and a ton of flavor. I think the sausage made both  the pizza and and the tomato sauce better.

Pork chops are the biggest test because I feel most chops lack fat, and are therefore tasteless and tough. Flying Pigs pork chops were about 3/4 inch thick and had a good amount of fat. My wife, Nora, saw a recipe in Martha Stewart that cooked pork chops in apples and onions, which I thought was a great combination. I didn’t like the recipe quantities or timing, but after several tries I was able modify the recipe to my liking. Below is my version…

The key to a good dish is good ingredients. Note the pork chops below are a healthy thickness and are not too lean. I actually trimmed a bit of the fat around the outside of the pork chop prior to cooking. 

Pork Chops

Pork Chops

Pork Chops with Apples & Onions

2 pork chops, 3/4 in.                                1 tbs. olive oil

2 tbs. butter                                                  1 small onion, sliced

2 apples, sliced                                             1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup apple juice                                     1 tsp dried sage

salt & pepper

Trim pork chops of excessive fat then season liberally with salt and pepper. Heat saute pan (stainless will work better than non-stick for browning) and add olive when hot. Add pork chops for 3 minutes per side, cooking on high heat to nicely brown the pork chops. Once browned, transfer to a plate.

Add butter to the pan then add onions and apples. Season with salt and pepper. Once the onions begin to turn translucent add the chicken broth, apple juice and the sage. Simmer for about 8 minutes and return the pork chops to the pan.  

Pork Chops with Apples & Onions

Pork Chops with Apples & Onions

Cook until the pork chops are tender, which should be about 10 minutes. Flip the pork after 5 minutes to ensure both sides cook evenly. Note that the pork is done when an instant read thermometer registers 145 to 150 degrees. I recommend testing the pork after 5 minutes to ensure that you don’t overcook. Once the desired internal temperature is reached, turn off the heat and let the chops rest in the pan for a minute or two while you plate your other vegetables. Then plate your chops and spoon the apples and onions over the pork. Enjoy!