Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Paris - A Couple New Favorites

Monday, April 12th, 2010

I think Paris is a spectacular city. Every time I walk along the Seine I am awestruck by its beauty. I have been to Paris numerous times, yet each time I return I always manage to find something amazing that I haven’t seen before. Well I was lucky again last week. I discovered two gems: a church and a museum.

Right near the Pantheon, in the Latin Quarter, is a magnificent little church:  St. Etienne-du-Mont. This church houses the shrine to Sainte Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. The church is mostly Gothic in style featuring huge columns and a high vaulted ceiling. The large stained glass windows that line bothsides of the church fill the room with light even on a cloudy day. As I walked down the right aisle of the the church, my eye was drawn to an intricately carved spiral staircase. The workmanship was incredible.  

St. Etienne du Mont

St. Etienne du Mont

In fact there are two staircases which are part of a fabulous rood-screen, an early Catholic device used to separate the choir where the monks and canons sat, and the congregation during the service. The church also has a spectacular carved wooden pulpit that dates back to 1651. I found this church very moving; the intricate detail was just amazing.

Paris is known for its museums. Musee du Louvre and Musee d’Orsay are the two most popular, and they are world renown. Until last week, my favorite museum in Paris was the MuseeRodin which comprises an excellent collection of sculptures housed in a beautiful mansion with an equally beautiful garden. Now I have a second second gem - Musee Marmottan Monet in the 16th Arrondissiment. This museum is housed in the 19th century mansion of art historian Paul Marmottan. In 1971 Michael Monet, son of famed Impressionist painter Claude Monet,  donated 65 of his father’s paintings to this museum. Many of the works were his father’s paintings from Giverny, including Water-lilies and the Japanese bridge over the water-lily pond. It was fascinating to see multiple versions of the same paintings. Monet would paint the same subject at different times of the day; and he would interpret the light by using drastically different colors. In addition, part of Claude Monet’s personal collection of paintings by Pissarro, Manet,  and Renoir were also donated.  

Musee Marmottan Monet

Musee Marmottan Monet

If you are a fan of Monet then this museum is a must.

 I hope that you get to visit Paris soon. Au revoir and Bon Voyage.

A New Year Ahead

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

This year I am looking to shake things up a bit. It’s easy to get stuck in a routine of cooking your favorite three recipes, serving the same bottle of wine, and travelling to the same places in your own backyard. Don’t get me wrong, a routine can be very comfortable. But diversity is the spice of life, and I am looking for new experiences in food, wine, and travel.

Food is all about great ingredients, and I have been disappointed with the pork I have been able to purchase locally. However, with the internet we are no longer limited to a few local suppliers. Yesterday I received my first shipment of Pork from Flying Pigs Farm http://www.flyingpigsfarm.com, a small producer of heritage pigs in New York. Tonight is the first test. I will make a pizza with their Italian sausage, tomatoes, and fontina cheese. I’ll keep you posted.

I am always seeking out new recipes, and I am determined to expand my repertoire this year. For starters, I received two new cookbooks for Christmas: ad hoc at home and Williams-Sonoma Essentials of French Cooking. I have already made Thomas Keller’s Leek Bread Pudding and it was spectacular. Friday I start a new series of cooking classes with super chef Michele Moloney; and I am anxious to try new recipes, cook with new ingredients, and master new techniques.

Tasting new wines, and visiting new wineries is easy, but identifying new favorites is a difficult feat. Many of you can probably suggest terrific wines that would blow my socks off ; but if they cost $100 per bottle is that really better in this economy? I say no. So finding a delicious $10 bottle would certainly be a home run; but how many cheap crappy wines do you need to sample to find that diamond in the rough? I don’t have the solution, but I have 12 months to figure it out. When I find a wine or producer that excites me, I will share it with you.

Last year I visited some great places in California: Mendocino, Half Moon Bay, Napa, Big Sur, and Palm Desert. This year I will look to expand my horizons beyond California. Paris is already on the schedule for  March, and although I have been there many times I have identified numerous new places that I must visit. The Northwest and new regions of Italy are also in the viewfinder. Perhaps Alaska, Patagonia, Spain, hmmm…so many places, so little time.

I’m excited, this year is already off to good start. Hopefully each month I’ll introduce you to something new on food, wine, or travel. Cheers!

Anacapa Island

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

If you stand on the beach in Santa Barbara and look out over the Pacific Ocean, you will notice a series of mountains 10 miles off shore. These are the Channel Islands, an archipelago of 5 volcanic islands that are a National Park. Although only Park Rangers and scientists inhabit the islands, they are a fun place to go for a day trip.

I visited Anacapa Island last Spring. It’s the second largest of the Channel Islands, and the easiest to get to. Anacapa is actually composed of three islets: east, middle and west with east being the largest islet. The most common departure point for Anacapa is Oxnard, a town that is 40 minutes south of Santa Barbara. The boat ride to Anacapa is 12 miles, and takes just under an hour. Although some boat rides are boring, if you like dolphins then this will be the ride of your life. Once the boat leaves the marina dolphins will start appearing by the dozens, and they will escort the boat the entire trip to Anacapa. My favorite part was walking up to the bow of the boat and watching the four dolphins right under the keel.  It looked like the boat would run them over. It was fascinating, almost like a synchronized swimming event, two would swim off and immediately two others would take their place. I could have watched the dolphins for hours, it was hypnotic. We must have seen a hundred of them; it was heaven.

As you approach Anacapa Island you see the lighthouse and Arch Rock, which is a 40 foot high natural bridge. The arch is one of those unique sculptures created by nature; it’s so cool. The lighthouse, which is perched on the highest point of the island, was built in 1932 in a Mission Revival style. It’s famous for being the last free standing lighthouse built on the west coast. 

Arch Rock & Lighthouse

Arch Rock & Lighthouse

The boat docks at Landing Cove, a small inlet on the eastern end of the island. The water was too rough to tie onto the dock so the captain expertly maneuvered the boat back and forth enabling the passengers to jump off. From the dock you climb up a steep metal staircase to the island plateau, which is about 200 feet above sea level, and you are greeted with spectacular coastal views.

Anacapa is long and skinny, only one square mile. Two miles of hiking trails crisscross the island and run along it’s periphery; there are markers along the path identifying all the scenic spots. Due to the lack of rain, the island is brown for most of the year. But the rain during the winter season transforms the island into a burst of color in the Spring. Rows of tree sunflowers line the hiking paths, and their bright yellow flowers are spectacular. Red paintbrush and morning glories are two other native plants that add to the palette of color. If Monet was alive, he would have gone to Anacapa rather than Giverny. So try to plan your trip during the Spring.

If you miss the Spring flowers, don’t fret because the island is filled with other natural beauty. As you head to the western tip of the islet you reach Inspiration Point which has sumptuous views of the Middle and Western Anacapa.

Inspiration Point

Inspiration Point

West Anacapa can only be reached by boat, and is rarely visited. It contains the largest breeding colony of the endangered California Brown Pelican.

Although most people on the boat trip just hike and picnic, you can arrange to kayak or snorkel. The island has many caves to explore, and this is where sea lions and harbor seals congregate. For the hikers there are two great overlooks to see these mammals: Cathedral Cove and Pinniped Point. They are not as cute as the dolphins, but are fun to watch nonetheless.

There is a campground and picnic area located in the center of the island. We met three girls that camped here for 4 days while doing a research project; but I wouldn’t recommend staying over night unless you’re in dire need of extended solitude. The picnic area is perfect however for lunch before returning to the boat.

Anacapa is a great day trip for boaters, hikers, and anyone that enjoys natural beauty. Can you smell the invigorating sea air?

Longing for Italy - Part 2

Sunday, October 11th, 2009

Ravello is the other small town that I crave for. It’s high in the hills on the Amalfi Coast overlooking the Gulf of Salerno. Ravello is a tiny gem filled with history; some of its architecture dates back to the 10th century. The nearby town of Positano probably gets most of the press, but Ravello is far more charming with a lot fewer tourists.

The first thing I think of when I hear Ravello is Cumpa Cosimo. It’s a small unpretentious trattoria run by Netta, a little fireplug that makes some of the best pasta in Italy. My friend John is a quick eater, and he downed his bowl of pasta in milliseconds. Netta was so impressed she brought him a second bowl for free…and yes he ate it. Although eating is always number one on my list, Ravello’s key attribute is the view.  Go to the Villa Cimbrone and you will be well rewarded with ancient sculpture, beautiful gardens, and perhaps the best view on the Amalfi Coast - you can see for miles. Although the Villa is only 10 minutes from the town square, I made a wrong turn and we walked down a tiny path all the way to the bottom of the hill. Getting back up the hill was not fun, but while getting lost we ended up meandering through many backyards. I share this because we came upon a couple ladies laying out hundreds of tomatoes in the sun to dry. Sometimes the best scenes are not the tourist spots, but those glimpses into the lives of the locals. Another great spot for vistas is the Hotel Sasso, go for a drink and enjoy the sunset.

Villa Cimbrone

Villa Cimbrone

Ravello is also known for one more thing - pottery. If you ever had dinner at my house then you have eaten on Ravello pottery. There are several pottery stores, but our favorite is Da Lena. The selection is amazing, there will definitely be a color pattern that suits you. Although it seems scary to ship pottery back home, we have done it twice and never had a problem.

Italy has so many small towns, I think we all need to plan another trip to explore. Buon Viaggio.