Posts Tagged ‘Paris’

Three tiny gems… museums

Friday, February 27th, 2004

The Louvre, the Uffizi, and The Metropolitan Museum of Art are certainly some of the finest museums in the world. However I prefer the tiny gems. The small museums that focus on only one, or perhaps a handful of artists; yet their collections will amaze you. I have three favorites: the Villa Borghese, the Frick, and the Rodin.

The Villa Borghese, which is located in the Borghese Gardens in Rome, is absolutely breathtaking. The Villa was designed in 1605 for Cardinal Scipione Borghese and exhibits sculptures on the ground floor and artwork on the second floor. The collection of Bernini sculptures, including Apollo and Daphne, is the most impressive I have ever seen.

The Frick Collection on Fifth Ave in New York City is housed in a mansion built for Henry Clay Frick in 1914. Paintings and sculpture are placed throughout the mansion in much the same way as Henry Frick did when he lived here. It is this relaxed atmosphere that makes the Frick so unique. The Living Room, Dining Room, East & West Gallery are adorned with such masters as Rembrandt, Degas, El Greco, Turner and Vermeer.

The Rodin museum in Paris is another treat. A beautiful chateau built around 1730, surrounded by perfectly manicured gardens, provides a great venue to appreciate the works of Rodin. He actually lived there for 6 years prior to his death in 1917. He donated all his work, including his private collection with pieces by Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh. Rodin’s sculptures are fabulous, and the collection includes The Thinker and The Kiss. During the warmer months, a walk through the garden of boxwoods and roses intermixed with sculpture is particularly enjoyable.

Sometimes it is much more moving to visit a tiny museum and appreciate just a few pieces of exquisite art, than diluting the experience by being overwhelmed by too many choices.

The Outdoor Food Markets of Europe

Saturday, January 24th, 2004

When setting up an itinerary for a trip to Europe, it is understandable that one starts with the famous museums and churches at the top of the list of places to visit. I urge you, however, to find time to visit the outdoor food markets. Locals visit these markets to buy the freshest of ingredients for their meals. These markets will give you insight into what’s in season while opening your eyes to a smorgasbord of local delicacies. But you will also find that it is not just about the food. They give you insight into the local culture as well.

Traveling through Provence on the way to the popular antique market L’Isle sur la Sorgue, we stopped at a local farmers market in Coustellet. One vendor had a rotisserie cooking chickens and pork. After several nights of magnificent meals at great restaurants, we thought it might be nice to pick up a roast pork and enjoy it on the terrace of our hotel. Another vendor at the same market had some olives, cheeses, and sausages; perfect for our first course. There was also a gentleman selling wines. Not the homemade type, but a delicious Chateauneuf du Pape. Eating this feast while enjoying the vistas of the hills of the Luberon was truly spectacular.

The market on Rue Cler in Paris is another enormous feast for the eyes. If it’s a nice day, why not pick up a baguette and a camembert and have a picnic in the Tuileries? This will certainly help make you feel like a Parisian.

One Sunday while walking through the Trastevere section of Rome, we found a small market overlooking the banks of the Tiber. I found a vendor selling olive oil. It had no label, it was green and cloudy, yet it was spectacular. Talk about bringing home a memory

When I visited the outdoor market in Helsinki, I found it fascinating to see a large salmon nailed to a cedar plank cook slowly over wooden coals. What was so interesting is that the fish was only cooked on one side. Sometimes these markets teach you more about the culture than any museum possible could.

So whether you are buying olives in Provence, caviar in Helsinki, or mustard in Paris, it is always a treat to visit the outdoor markets for a taste of the local cuisine.